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Aerial photo of Arviat
As
you fly north out of Winnipeg, you cannot help but be impressed
by the number of lakes of all shapes and sizes. Farther
north, the trees begin to thin and expanses of tundra appear. Churchill,
Manitoba, known for its polar bears, sits in this type
of area with stunted trees on the edge of Hudson Bay. Taking
off from Churchill, the plane's announcements are now in
English, French and Inuktitut (the language of the Inuit).
Landing
in Arviat, the sun tries to break through as we taxi down
the gravel runway. Arviat is becoming a good-sized town by
Inuit standards, with well over 1000 residents and a nice,
fairly modern airport terminal. Arviat remains known for
its traditional carvings, which are very abstract and simple
with almost a modern art feel to them. Arviat also possesses
many women carvers, somewhat uncommon among the Inuit.
The
terrain around Arviat presents multi-colored hues of copper
brown, moss green, sandy tan, teal lakes, dark blue-green
ocean and predominately grey skies.
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Aerial photo of Rankin Inlet
Rankin
Inlet contains the most people and services in the Kivalliq
(south-central Nunavut) region. Much larger than Arviat,
Rankin even has a paved runway at the airport.
Leaving
Rankin on my way south, the weather turned bad
with snow and winds that almost blew the plane off the runway
on take-off! Beforehand it felt like a boat on
the ocean as we sat at the terminal.
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Ice breaker in Repulse Bay
Naujaat
or Repulse Bay sits on a rocky stretch on the south end
of Melville Peninsula. Naujaat (NOW-yacht) means "seagull
nesting place."
As
we approach the airport, we can see a barge and an ice
breaker in the bay. The barge is one of two that
will bring most of the year's supplies.
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Naujaat arch
Naujaat
welcomes you with a stone arch with carved heads that
commemorates the fact that you are on the Arctic Circle.
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Naujaat - main street
The
inhabitants of Naujaat number about 700. The village
sits overlooking a beautiful bay, often full of small
boats.
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Former hamlet office building
The
modern Naujaat hamlet office looks imposing compared
to most structures in the village. Unfortunately,
it recently burned to the ground (no one was hurt).
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Co-op and Inns North
On
the other hand, the co-op building which houses the Inns
North Hotel seems quite cozy with rooms overlooking the
bay or adjacent hills.
It's
quite a juxtaposition; however, when watching satellite
TV in your room of a live shot from Los Angeles station
KTLA at Santa Monica Beach, and then it's snowing and
below freezing several thousand miles away where you
are.
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Nunavut Arctic College
Nunavut
Arctic College's student body of over 30 studies
a variety of subjects including carving classes
taught by the famous Paul Malliki (below).
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Paul Malliki
Though
only 46, Paul has created work for the Queen and the
Prime Minister of Canada. His specialty remains
realistic animal carvings. He feels he gets true
proportion on his pieces because as a hunter, he takes
exact measurements of animals he has hunted.
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Local granite and marble
Outside
of town, lovely pink granite hills jut out with veins
of white marble running through them. Both materials
are used by village carvers as well as local steatite
and limestone. Native silver may also be found
not far away.
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Inuksuit
The
hills sport many inuksuit (plural of inuksuk), which
act as markers and guides for the Inuit.
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Cecilia Angotialuk
Many
fine carvers reside in Naujaat. Quite a few were
students of Paul Malliki. This area is also developing
many fine women carvers. Cecilia
Angotialuk,
a long-time carver, continues to produce her traditionally
styled carvings.
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John, Jan, and Jennifer Kadjuk
New
up-and-comers like Jennifer Kadjuk (only
in her mid-twenties!) create thematically new and different
pieces. Jennifer's
originality makes me think she will be one of Naujaat's
stars.
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Lazarus Malliki
Lazarus
Malliki (brother of Paul) attempts technically new
concepts like inlay work in his pieces, making very
special carvings.
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Richard Angotialuk
37
year old Richard Angotialuk (Cecilia's son) produces
realistic and whimsical pieces often from granite,
which is a hard stone to carve.
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Mathew Shimout
Mathew
Shimout (born 1967) originally from Coral Harbour,
then Naujaat, and now temporarily residing in Rankin
Inlet, makes wonderful multi-figure "totem-like" pieces
of stone and antler as well as realistic carvings. Definitely
a carver to watch!
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Phillip Kidlapik
Other
carvers include 22-year-old Phillip
Kidlapik (pictured), who often
works in limestone; John-Marie
Ivalutinuar (also the
local P.E. teacher); Jackie and
Cheryl Milortok (an
innovative brother and sister who independently create
beautifully finished animals);John
Kadjuk (Jennifer's
husband), who carves a variety of subject matter; and
Semi Malliki (Paul's father), who
still does mostly rasp and file carvings.
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Road to Coral Harbour
On
Southhampton Island south of Naujaat, the hamlet of
Coral Harbour also contains many fine carvers including
Johnny Kataluk, Tommy,
Henry and Lucassie Nakoolak,
Daniel Shimout, George Noah and
Clifford Natakok, among
others. Also inhabited by about 700 folks, Coral
Harbour seems especially remote when one lands at the
airport.
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I
was stranded by weather (fog and high winds) an extra
couple of days. Unfortunately, all flights require visual
landings and after the pilot missed the runway on two attempts,
I think I would have taken a pass as well. But
I really didn't mind as everyone showed such warmth
and friendliness.
I
cannot thank John Kaufmann (then general manager of the
Co-op) enough for his kindness as well as his wonderful
staff. And a big "Qujannamiik!" (Thank
You!) to everyone in Naujaat.
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